Opened in 1926 by Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of an English General, and a north Indian Mughal princess, Faisan Nissa Begum, Veeraswamy is the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant. Soon after opening – on Swallow Street, just off Regent Street, with magnifi cent views of the iconic street’s curve – the restaurant quickly became a fashionable rendezvous for the establishment. Among its frequent early visitors were Edward, Prince of Wales, and the King of Denmark, who were drawn not only to Veeraswamy’s remarkable cuisine, but also to its Raj-inspired, opulent interiors.
“One of the key aspects that makes Veeraswamy special is its illustrious history, which we have sought to renew and update,” says Ranjit Mathrani, chairman of the MW Eat Group, owner of Veeraswamy. “The restaurant has been in the same location for 96 years and was opened on almost the same day as the birth of Her Majesty the Queen. There are very few restaurants that have been in the same location for such a length of time.
“Veeraswamy started off very much as an establishment restaurant, serving the aristocracy and ruling classes of Britain. This included people who, by virtue of their background, had a strong interest in India, such as generals, civil servants and businessmen involved in India. From the outset, the restaurant was serving the very cream of London society.”
Today, Veeraswamy exudes the same extraordinary glamour and rich essence of its legendary past, having been restored to its position as one the leading restaurants serving fine Indian food, with opulent and sumptuous interiors ff ering a timeless aura of sophistication. The surroundings reflect the decade in which Veeraswamy opened, when the Maharaja Palaces in northern India were influenced by Art Nouveau. The exquisite décor includes silver-clad ceilings and handmade Venetian-style chandeliers, resplendent furnishings such as glorious teak dining tables, and hand-woven carpets, all of which have been expertly crafted in India. Evocative monochrome photographs of the ruling elite of India from the era adorn the walls, along with humorous paintings from the Kalighat School of painters in Bengal.
“MW Eat purchased Veeraswamy in 1997, making us the second-longest owners of the restaurant, and during that period we have refurbished on three or four occasions,” explains Mathrani. “Each time, we have ensured that the restaurant retains its contemporary relevance and is not just a museum piece. It’s been a constant evolution that is reflected in everything we do. We finished a refurbishment earlier this year, taking the opportunity to refashion the restaurant, bringing in new furniture and lighting. It is very important when you have a restaurant of the history and heritage of Veeraswamy that people feel there is something new and different that they can experience and enjoy.”
When it comes to private dining, Veeraswamy’s sophisticated Mughal-inspired Palmer Room exudes glamour, elegance and exclusivity. The room can comfortably seat up to 22 or, for less-formal events, up to 50 can be accommodated for cocktail-style functions. “The Palmer Room is in great demand because of its romantic and playful décor,” says Mathrani, “with Baccarat chandeliers, flickering candle lights and elegant silk curtains to create a romantic atmosphere.
“We ensure that the history is interwoven with not just the design and the style, but also the cuisine. We’re creating an experience, which is something that people enjoy and appreciate when eating at a fine dining restaurant of this level. It's not just the food, but the ambiance, the service and the totality of what people feel.”
Veeraswamy offers a comprehensive menu of long-established classical dishes, comfort food and contemporary creations, prepared to the highest standard in a modern culinary style. The tastes and flavours from the palaces and gourmet homes of several regions of India are refined and adapted, with spices sourced directly from the best producers in India, combined with the best local ingredients.
“Our cuisine is the classical gourmet food of India, tuned to the tastes of the current century. In essence, we’ve created a gastronomic tour of the whole of the whole country,” says Mathrani. “It should be remembered that India is the size of Western Europe, with 16 different cuisines. We have looked to reflect this, so we have nine highly experienced chefs from different regions of India, each cooking their own cuisine, because that is the only way we can maintain the gastronomic and culinary integrity. We were proud to be awarded a Michelin star in 2016.”
Veeraswamy’s long-standing traditions also extend to its patrons, with generations of the same families revisiting the restaurant for special occasions. “When you think of Veeraswamy as an institution, it has been a place where many people have had their first dining experience, dating back as far as the Second World War,” says Mathrani.
“We often receive emails and messages from people in their eighties who perhaps met their spouse at Veeraswamy and wish to celebrate an anniversary or special occasion – we’ve even hosted a 100th birthday celebration with four generations of the same family present. We pride ourselves on making such experiences as memorable as possible. In fact, in four years’ time we will be celebrating our own 100th anniversary at Veeraswamy, which we plan to make a moment of great celebration!”
